When
is the 2012 Pan Am Race?
What is
the official status of the Pan Am Race?
How much
is the entry fee and what do you get for it?
What’s
involved in a typical Pan Am day?
What kind
of road race or rally is the Pan Am?
What are
the transit sections like?
Do I need
a real race car?
What are
the classes of cars?
What’s
required to run a car in the Historic (1955-1965)
class?
What are
the Competition (1940-1954) classes?
How should
I select and prepare a car to run in the Historic
classes?
What about
the gasoline in Mexico?
How should
I run the race?
Do I need
racing experience?
Do I need
a rally computer?
What licenses
are needed?
How many
drivers are allowed in each car?
How many
cars are allowed in the Pan Am?
Is a support
crew necessary?
What is
my car breaks down during the race?
What if
my spouse or friends want to come along?
What about
extra hotel rooms?
How do
I get my race car there?
What about
the border crossing?
What about
car insurance in Mexico?
How much
will traveling in Mexico cost?
What are some
tips for traveling south of the border?
What about
our hotels in Mexico?
Can I drink
the water and eat the food?
What should
I do when I arrive in Tuxtla Gutierrez?
How thorough
is the technical inspection?
When will
we receive official instructions or orientation?
How fast
do Pan Am cars run the special stages?
When is the 2012 Pan Am Race?
Welcome! This will be 25th year for the “modern” Pan
Am, La Carrera Panamericana. The Organizing Committee
in Mexico promises another exciting event. They
invite you to “Live the Legend” of the
Pan Am!
Tentatively, the race will start at 8:00 AM, Friday,
Oct. 19 in the city of Oaxaca. The race will
end seven days later, on Thursday, Oct. 25 in Zacatecas.. It
will cover approximately 2000 miles of paved roads
mostly through the central part of the country. A “pre-qualification” or
time trial is scheduled for Oct. 18 in the morning
to determine the starting order.
What is the official status of the Pan Am Race?
The Pan Am is sponsored by the Mexican government’s
Department of Tourism and supported by the Mexican
Federal Highway Patrol. Several Federal Highway
Patrol members, including senior officers, travel with
the race. They coordinate with local police
to close the roads for the speed stages and to provide
security for the race participants and support crews.
The Mexican Federation of Auto Sports (FMAD) sanctions
the event. The Federation issues mandatory Mexican
racing licenses to all competitors for an additional
$260 USD or so.. Local car clubs provide volunteer
workers in their areas.
The Organizing Committee of the Pan Am comprises: Eduardo “Lalo” Leon,
President; his wife, Monica Grossmann; his daughter,
Karen Leon, and her husband, Victor Segura. Mr.
Leon may be reached at lalo@lacarrerapanamericana.com.mx or
1-310-860-6959 (U.S. number).
How much is the entry fee and what do you get for
it?
For information about the entry fee and costs please
e-mail gbledso@aol.com or
call 650-867-9488. The fee covers one car in the race,
plus the driver(s) and co-driver (s). It also
covers:
(1) the administrative expenses of the race
(2) one first class hotel room for eight nights
for the driver and co-driver
(3) receptions, some evening meals, and
entertainment
(4) event souvenirs
(5) decals and Route Books for the race car and
service vehicle.
The registration fee is normally non-refundable, but
the final policy on this issue will be announced later
and published in CARRERA NEWS. For undisclosed
reasons, the Carrera Office does not post the entry
fee on any web site or allow it to be posted by others.
Please read “Entry
Process” on this web site for details about
how to enter and pay the entry fee. The Organizing
Committee selects the entries and may refuse any entry.
WARNING. The Pan Am is an auto race, as
such it dangerous for all competitors. The
event requires close attention to safety features
in the car, and safe driving at high speed on mountainous
roads. It is highly recommended that all competitors
who have never held a racing license enroll in one
of the several racing schools in the US for their multi-day
course leading to a SCCA or vintage racing license,
or spend several days at the track in a high performance
driving school. Even with this experience, racing
on a (closed) public road in Mexico is a unique situation
and dangerous to life and limb.
What’s involved in a typical Pan Am day?
The race starts most days at 8:00 AM and ends around
4:00 PM at the day’s destination city. A
mid-day break for lunch and servicing the cars is included
in the daily schedule. There is a Drivers’ Meeting
each night around 9-10:00 PM, and usually some form
of social activity. Most crews find it necessary
to work on their cars in the evening.
Overnight stops are in major cities (most with airport
access) and the hotels are usually first class. You
won’t forget the hospitality of Mexico and its
people!
Along the way you will stop in larger towns to show
off your car, meet local car club members, sign autographs,
and hoist a few Coronas. A few Pan Am cars may
make the front page of the local paper. This
may be your promised fifteen minutes of fame! Enjoy! Bring
a camera to take your own snapshots. The locals
do not seem to mind, because they will be taking your
picture!
A typical day is described elsewhere on this web site.
What kind of road race or rally is the Pan Am?
The Pan Am is technically a stage rally. Each
car is given a detailed Route Book for the seven days. The
route is divided into “transit” and “special
stages.” The special stages are the speed
sections. The transit stages lead the cars from
one special stage to another through regular traffic. All
sections are run on paved roads closed to the public
for about an hour or so. There is no racing
through towns and cities, but our cars must move along
at 70-80 MPH on the open roads. in regular traffic
and through villages to make the next speed stage.
At the special stages, the cars check-in on time at
a control station. They line up in proper order,
and are started in 30 second intervals. The cars
are times electronically over the course of the speed
stage. The faster cars start first each day. Occasionally,
one car will pass another car during a speed section,
but all cars are running against the clock.
At the end of the day and week, the cars with the lowest
elapsed time in the special stages, plus any penalty
(time) points, will be awarded trophies by class and
overall. There are no cash prizes, only bragging
rights. Over the seven days, the racecars will
run from three to four hours at racing speed. The
rest of the driving time will be spent in transit sections
averaging 70-80 MPH.
Time penalties are imposed for arriving too early or
too late for the speed sections and other infractions. The
penalty is much less for being a little late than being
early (1 second a minute). You may be up to one
minute (59 seconds) late to a speed section before
incurring a time penalty. If you are a second
early, however, there will be a time penalty.
Each speed section has a maximum amount of time allocated
for it. If a racecar fails to start a speed section,
the crew is given the maximum time allotted. If
a car misses one speed stage or is more than 10 minutes
late, it is out for the day. The car may
run the next speed stages, but it will be given the
maximum time for each stage. The maximum time
is based on the slowest times recorded by cars in your
class for that particular stage.
No race can be won without crossing the finish line. Completing
the Pan Am is a significant accomplishment. When
you reach the finish line regardless of your rank in
the standings, you will know that you have succeeded
where many others have failed. Almost all cars
will have mechanical problems along the way and miss
a stage or a day. They may rejoin the race the
next day.
During these seven days you will enjoy racing your
car at high speeds over a closed road with thousands
of spectators (and cops) along the way urging you to
go faster. There are no “County Mounties” with
radar guns lying in wait. It’s the driver,
co-driver, the car, and the road. The only limit
is your good sense and understanding that you must
finish the race before you can claim success or victory! Speeds
are now limited in some classes to 144 MPH.
What are the “transit” sections like?
The transit sections can be short or very long stretches
of highway between the speed stages. You will
be driving in traffic with large trucks, buses, and “civilian” cars. You
are expected to obey all traffic laws. However,
the pace is brisk—70-80 MPH most of the day.
In towns along the way, the local police normally facilitate
getting the Pan Am cars through quickly. Watch
out for spectators. You do not want to hit a
spectator, a local’s car, or donkey! You
buy what you hit.
Try to stay with other Pan Am cars in the transit stages,
but do your own navigating. The Mexican Carrera
crews usually know where they’re going. Keep
bottled water and some snacks in your car. Also
carry at least 2500 pesos ($200 USD) in small bills
and coins for gas, toll roads, food, tips, and repairs. Many
gasoline stations do not take credit cards. Carry your
passport, driver’s license, credit card, etc.
in a safe place. If you have special medical
needs, wear a medical ID bracelet. If you are
allergic to any medication, mark it on your helmet
and driving suit.
Watch out for the “topes!” Topes
(tow-pays) are speed bumps. Every Mexican town
has them, and some are immense! This is why you
do not want to lower your car. Normally, you
can slow down and go across them at an angle. Some
cars have skid bars on the front end to slide the car
over. The local children will stand by the topes,
because they know you will slow down. So watch
for them crossing the road. Most of the topes
are listed in the Route Book. However, sometimes
they will add and remove them without warning.
Please, do not toss anything out of a moving car
window that will attract the children, even if you
are stopped at a tope Someday a kid is
going to get hit by a car as he reaches for a card or piece of candy tossed
out of a Pan Am car and the crew will be held responsible
Do I need a real race car?
Yes. There was a time that just about any
mechanically sound car made from 1940 through 1965
could compete and finish the Pan Am, if prepared properly
and driven prudently. Those days are pretty much
over. Safety rules have increased significantly
over the past decade, and the race has grown more professional,
faster. Read the rules, such as they are,
carefully before buying or building a car for this
event. All cars and modification must comply
with the rules and are subject to the approval of the
Organizers and the inspectors at the beginning of the
race. No one can give you a guarantee before
the race that your car will pass tech. Cars
that run in the event should be “street legal” (lights,
horns, etc.) in most states.
There was a time when just about any car would be accepted
by the Organizers, but those days have long passed
because the race has moved from being seriously under-subcribed
to over-subscribed. For example, the Organizers
do not want to enroll any more Mustangs, Flacons, or
Porsche 911/912. They say they already have too
many!
Read the rules carefully and consult with the North
American Coordinator or the office in Mexico City before
you buy a car for this event.
What are the classes of cars?
There are nine or ten classes of cars, which are divided
into two big groups: "Competition" and "Historic."
COMPETITION. Cars made from 1940 through 1954
are eligible for the “Competition” group. They
are allowed significant modifications. The fastest
class, Turismo Mayor (coupes and sedans), runs NASCAR
level engines (360 c.i.), semi-tubed bodies, modern
front suspensions, long trailing-arm or multi-link
rear suspensions, etc. They are purpose-built
racing cars that look like old cars. It will
cost $75,000 to $175,000 to build a competitive car
in this class. In Sports Mayor and Menor, sports
cars made from 1940-1954, you can also install modern
engines and modify the cars significantly.
HISTORIC. Cars made from 1955 through 1965 and
in one case 1972 are in the “Historic” classes--a
much more stock group. The Historics are subdivided
into fours groups based on their number of cylinders
(4-6-8). Recently, a new class, Historic A+ has
been added for four cylinder cars made from 1966-1972. This
class is limited to 2000 cc period engines or 1600
cc modern engines.
ORIGINAL PAN AM. There is also a separate class
for Original Pan Am cars--essentially stock cars made
from 1940 through 1954. Some later, original
cars may also qualify. Replicas are allowed and
should have the same body material and the basic configuration
as the original car.
To summarize, the Pan Am classes are:
(1) Original Pan Am: cars like those that ran
the original race in 1950-1954 – with modifications
for safety (like four-wheel disc brakes), and dependability
(12 volt systems, dual brakes systems, improved ignitions,
and better cooling). Because the Organizers want
these cars to keep up with the pace, they have been
accorded a lot of slack. In fact, some of them
blur the line between OPA and Competition.
Competition:
(2) Turismo Production – coupes and sedans,
1930-1954, original engines, 305 c.i. limit, specified
performance modifications.
(3) Turismo Major – coupes and sedans, 1930-1954
(the “top” class), 360 c.i. limit, specified
performance modifications.
(4) Sports Minor – sports cars, 1930-1954, up
to 2001 c.c. specified modifications allowed.
(5) Sports Major – sports cars, 1930-1954, over
2001 c.c. specified modifications allowed.
Historic:
Cars made from 1955 through 1965, original-era engines
bored up to .004.
(6) Historic A – four cylinders and (7) Historic
A+
(8) Historic B – six cylinders
(9) Historic C – eight and twelve cylinders
(10) Exhibition – cars that do not comply with
any class rules but the Organizers allow to run. They
are not in competition for any prizes.
Beginning in 2011 the top speed in the fastest classes
was limited to around 144 MPH.
See below for the “continuation” rule.
What’s required to run a car in the Historic
class?
The “Historic” class includes American
and European cars made from 1955 through 1965, plus
four-cylinder cars made from 1966-1972. This
is primarily a stock class, but some cars have become
purpose-built racecars, and some of them in Historic
C are capable of challenging the fastest classes (Turismo
Mayor).
All cars must install basic safety equipment, including
a full six-point roll cage with a “halo” bar
over the drivers’ heads, a bar across the top
of the windshield, AN “X” BRACE ACROSS
THE ROOF, and at least one bar across the doors. There
is no clear set of rules for cages. Send your
plan or diagram to the North American Coordinator or
Mexico City for review before you start welding pipe.
Five-point seat belts and two-layer racing suits are
required. Helmets must be Snell SA2005 or SA2010,
equipped with HANS devices or another FIA approved
restraint system. Non-Halon fire suppression
systems are also required along with boots, gloves,
etc.
Certain modifications and upgrades in mechanical components
are permissible such as disc brakes, modern master
cylinders, improved ignition and cooling systems, and "period" speed
enhancing options, "export packages," etc. But
these cars must maintain the original style engine,
and displacement (bored up to 40 over). Alloy
heads are not allowed unless factory equipment. Aluminum
intake manifolds are allowed. Independent rear
suspension cannot be added. Shocks may be modern
and adjustable, but they must be in the original location.
Suspension and steering arms should be stock pieces. Rack
and pinion steering should not be installed. Suspension
items may be reinforced. Fuel injections is not
allowed, unless it is mechanical and installed by the
factory.
The rules will be applied honestly and fairly. They
are designed and administered to level the playing
field (race track?). The basic rule for
all classes is – one car will not be allowed
a significant technical advantage over the other cars
in that class. Many of the restrictions on the
cars are designed to slow them down, like rim width,
and make the Pan Am a safer event. Numerous accidents
and serious injuries may threaten the continuation
of the race. Good brakes, fresh seat belts,
and a strong roll cage are imperative!
If you have any doubt about your car or any modification,
please contact the North American Coordinator or the
Organizers in Mexico City, since they have the final
word.
What are the Competition classes?
Competition cars must be manufactured before 1955 and
are permitted modifications such as four-wheel disc
brakes, larger or later model motors, and 5 speed transmissions. They
are divided into four classes: (1) production coupes
and sedans: straight 4,6, and 8 cylinder motors, flat-head
V8's, and certain OHV V8's up to 305 cu. in.; (2) production
coupes and sedans: up to 360 cu. in.; (3) sports
cars: up to 2000cc and (4) sports cars over 2000cc. Carburetor
sizes are limited for all classes to around 600 CFM. Read
the rules for each class carefully. Special or
unique cars (limited production) must be specifically
approved, some replicas are allowed.
The organizers may re-classify cars to promote competition. Some
one-off “special” cars from the 1940-1955
era may be allowed to compete.
Certain replicas are also allowed to run in the sport
car classes. Normally, they must be made of the
same body material as the original and have the same
engine displacement. It is also possible to use
modern engines in the sports class, as long as the
number of cylinders is the same.
Over the past decade the cars have become more purpose-built
and much faster.
How should I select and prepare a car to run in
the Historic (1955-1965) classes?
Most competitors, especially in their first year or
two, will usually opt to run in the Historic classes
or Original Pan Am. When selecting a car, there
are two choices to consider:
1. You can purchase a car that has run the Pan
Am recently. It probably has the proper roll
cage, safety equipment,, etc., and may just need tuning. (See
the Classified
Ads on this web site.)
2. Prepare one yourself. You’ll
need nine months, at least. Do not wait to get
started.
The car must be manufactured and titled for the 1955-1965
model years and be capable of being driven at 70-80
MPH for about 250 miles daily for seven days. The
roads are paved but there are rough sections occasionally. Massive
quantities of Loc Tight are recommended!
The car must have a rally-type six-point roll cage,
five-point seat belts, window nets, plus a fire system. It's
that simple. Eight or ten point cages are more
common now than before/
The “continuation” rule. In
a limited number of cases, models of cars made after
1965 are allowed to enter, if they are essentially
the same in appearance and performance as a 1965 model. (A
1966 Mustang with a 289 engine, a 1967 Corvette with
a 327, or 1968 Porsche 912 are three good examples
of this “continuation” rule.) However,
by rule 1968 Mustangs and Dodge Darts and Barracudas
are allowed to enter the race. Also, Datsun Z
cars from the ‘70s are allowed in Historic
B because the organizers like them.
Pick a car that you want to drive on the street after
the race or in vintage racing. You might want
to take it to car shows or other rallies in the off-season. Hemmings,
Auto Trader.com, eBay, and your local newspaper are
sources of eligible cars.
Four-door cars from this era are a lot cheaper and
actually better for the Pan Am than coupes. The
rear doors of a sedan allow easy access to the back-seat
area for a properly mounted spare tire, battery, fire
system, and gear. The top is stronger and often
they weigh less than the coupe.
Body condition – cars should be 50/50. That
is look good going 50 MPH at 50 feet away. This
is not a vintage event concerned with originality. Minor
rust and dents can be removed with a hammer and filler. Look
for a car with good glass as windshields for old cars can be expensive. Missing
chrome pieces, trim etc., can be added later. This is not a concourse,
but all cars should be presentable (no primer). Smaller flaws can be
covered with racing decals! An Earl Scheib $199.00 paint job will cover
multiple flaws. Just add a few vinyl graphics and you’ll have a
Panam racer! The names, hometowns, and blood types of the driver and
co-driver can be applied with vinyl letters, or painted on the car in Mexico
for a few bucks.
The interior—has become more of a priority. You must have
one-piece FIA racing seats, no more than 5 years old. Headliner, door
panels etc., are up to you. Completely gutted cars may enter. Rip
out the dash. Pull out the back seat to install the roll cage and provide
more storage room. Install a couple of hooks behind your seat on the cage to
hang your helmets during the transit stages. A small cooler for food
and water is useful.
Beverage cup holders are good, along with a cup for
change (coins) for the toll booths.
Engine-- You need a motor that will make
it 2000 miles running at 70-80 MPH the whole way. Do
not buy a full race motor for this class. Reliability
is better rather than max horsepower or torque. Excessive “hot
rodding” will stress the other components and risk mechanical problems. Because
of the mountain roads, good cooling, low-end torque, and compression are essential. Gas
quality becomes less an issue. Torque is more important that horsepower. Make
sure the correct cam is selected. Street or RV cams do better than cams
designed for a racetrack.
In Historic C, Cars that weigh less than 2800 pounds
at technical inspection must use a 500 CFM two-barrel
carb. Over 2800 pounds, they may use a 600 CFM
four-barrel.
Suspension-- must be a major priority. Shocks,
springs, wheel bearings, bushings, tie-rods, ball joints,
steering gear, and related components must be checked
thoroughly and replaced if necessary. You do
NOT want any of these parts to fail while going around
a corner in the mountains of Mexico! Do not lower
your car, because Mexican speed bumps will knock off
your pan, mufflers, or suspension components. At
least five inches of ground clearance is essential. Seven inches is recommended
by the organizers.
The race is won by your times in the twisty sections
of road. Handling is everything. Stiff springs up front
and good shocks are the key. So get some miles
on the car. Practice getting around corners
fast! Don't worry much about top speed. Keep
up the momentum. Remember, finishing the race
is most important. Next in importance is good,
consistent, and smooth driving. Third is speed. Too
much of the latter causes mechanical failure and wrecks.
Brakes-- Replace everything if there is the
slightest possibility of failure. A car is only
as good as its brakes. A dual master cylinder is encouraged
but not mandatory. If it is a drum-brake car
and you plan on driving it hard, bring along a couple
of extra sets of brake shoes. Have
them installed properly. You can have these changed anywhere at a very
reasonable cost if you have the parts. Under the rules, front and rear
disc brakes can be added to all Carrera cars. Disc brakes are a much
better coming down mountain roads because they do not fade as fast as drum
brakes. Bring an extra set of pads. Consider a harder, more durable
pad to provide longer service. Porterfield, Wilwood, and other companies
sell pads that are between a street pad and a competition pad. Competition
pads often do not work well until they get hot, so sometimes they are not effective
in the cool mornings driving around town!
Other components to address:
Cooling-- It is harder to cool an engine at
high altitude because of the thin air. So boil
or re-core that old radiator, or get a new, larger
aluminum one. Replace the hoses and thermostat. Use
a fan shroud. If
the car is prone to overheating, add a “puller” electric fan to
the back of the radiator operated by a switch or thermostat. High flow water
pumps or electric pumps are good.
Electrics-- Replace the old system if possible. Install a new
battery and cables, at least. Make sure the alternator is charging properly. A
new voltage regulator might be a good idea. If it is a 6-volt system,
a spare 12-volt battery and a set of jumper cables are a good idea to fire
it up.
Heater-- Not necessary, but sometimes a defroster is useful. Otherwise,
use RainX anti-fog.
Windshield wipers-- Necessary. Make sure they work although we usually
experience little rain during the event. Consider applying a coat of
RainX, too.
Lights—Headlights, taillights, blinkers, and brake lights should
work. There is no night driving scheduled, but you may do some if you
have suffered a breakdown and are running late. Directional signals
and flashers required. Some people install wig-wag systems or strobe
lights.
Horn-- Important. The louder the better! Occasionally, you will
need it to scare the horses, cattle, sheep, chickens, and urchins off the road.
Sit on your horn before trying to pass someone in a speed stage.
Fuel system-- A fuel cell should be installed in all cars. A fuel
cell (any material) can be bolted into the trunk of most cars. If so, you will
need some sheet metal between the truck and the passenger compartment. Install
new racing fuel filter. A new fuel pump is cheap, so carry a spare.
Exhaust-- You can run headers and straight pipes if you want, but they
are loud and the car body acts as an echo chamber. A good dual exhaust
system with turbo mufflers works well. Exit them out the back of the
car. Side exhausts lower your ground clearance and will get flattened
on the speed bumps if mounted too low. Remember -- you must endure the
noise for 2000 miles!
Transmission-- Historic cars are limited to four forward gears, unless
they came from the factory with five. Some Competition cars may have
five. A shifter on the floor is great, while “three on the tree” is
fine. Automatics are OK, but not as much fun and subject to failure. Automatics
can be modified to shift like sticks. Make sure the transmission will
help slow the car down as you come down the mountain! A transmission
cooler is recommended.
Tuning-- Most of the Pan Am is run at high altitude (over 6000 feet). Carbs
tuned at lower altitude pump out too much gasoline for the thin air. If
you want to have fun, learn how to adjust your carb for high altitude. Most
serious racers change jets or metering rods at least twice. Check out a Willy’s
carb, too.
Tires-- Must be at least DOT approved, with a tread wear of at least
60. No “competition only” tires or shaved tires are allowed. You
are also limited to 6”-7”-8” rims depending on your class.
Rim width will be measured in tech. This rule is enforced to slow the
cars down. The rim must be the stock diameter for your model. Aluminum
wheels are allowed, but they tend to break. New steel wheels are best,
with beefy lugs and lug nuts.
Limits on the tire’s aspect ratio vary by class. Check
the official rules. 50 series tires (and higher)
will be allowed in Historic C and most classes.
If you are considering preparing a car for Historic
C, ask the North American Coordinator for his special
handout on preparing one of these cars.
What about the gasoline in Mexico?
Pan Am cars must use pump gas sold at the state-owned
Mexican gasoline stations, PEMEX. PEMEX Premio
is 92 octane. No racing fuel should be used. You
are not allowed to carry gas in the racecar or in a
service vehicle. A few small bottles of
octane booster are allowed, but 55 gallon drums are
not. Premium PEMEX gas is around around $4.00
USD a gallon.
There are PEMEX gas stations with premium all along
the route – no more than 100 miles apart. All
stations sell “regular” or Magna unleaded
87 octane gas (green pump) and most sell the higher
octane 92 version from the red pump (Premio). At
high altitude, however, octane does not make much difference
in performance, because you lose about 1/3 of your
compression due to the thin air. Most of the
race is run above 6000 feet in altitude and in one
transit stage we will get up to 10,000 feet!
Mexican gasoline has a reputation it does not deserve. But
to be safe, install a good filtration system, and throw
in a can of additive occasionally to burn out any water. Gas
costs about the same or less than in the States and
is sold by the liter. 3.78 liters equals one
gallon. It‘s customary to tip the state
attendants a couple of pesos, especially if they wash
your windshield. Most stations have OK bathrooms,
which may chare a few pesos to use, and sell food,
cokes, bottled water, etc.
More PEMEX stations are accepting credit cards but
it may slow down your stop. Cash is faster!
How should I run the race?
Carefully!
Start cautiously the first day or two. Your adrenal
glands will be pumping, so be extra careful. Do
not scare the sh*t out of your co-driver. It's
hard to get that stench out of his driving suit and
car!
As you build confidence, your times will improve. Focus
on being smooth and keeping your momentum up. But
a sense of confidence will push some drivers to go
too fast. Again, the first rule is – FINISH
THE RACE! Too many cars break down or wreck because
the driver exceeds the car’s and driver’s
capabilities. In racing terms, you should never
exceed 8/10s of the car’s and your combined capacity
while racing down a Mexican canyon, unless you have
a lot of experience. Of course, if you are only
20 seconds behind the car just ahead of you on the
third day, well………? Please
remember, you must finish the race for anything to
count. Above all, be safe, and celebrate at
the finish of the race!
Do I need racing experience?
Use your common sense. Do not come to the Pan
Am and try to be competitive unless you have a valid
road racing or vintage racing license and sufficient
experience. Also note that racing in the mountains
is much different than driving around the local track
at home.
This race can be great fun for amateur drivers with
good driving skills who enjoy a “spirited” drive
down a canyon road. It is highly recommended,
however, that those without recent racing or rally
experience take a three- or four-day session at a racing
school to learn basic car control.
Practice driving your car “at speed” and
around sharp turns for few hundred miles before coming
down to the race. Learn how the car handles and
how the new parts are holding together. Take
it into the mountains if you can. Find out how
fast you can stop the car before you lock up the brakes. Practice “panic” stops
several times with the brakes hot.
Most racing accidents in Mexico are caused by excessive
speed, followed by locking up the brakes before a curve
and going straight into the ditch, rather than around
the curve. It is impossible to steer a car with
the brakes locked up and the tires sliding.
Another frequent mistake is going into the curve too
fast and then lifting off the gas or braking -- at
the wrong time. This reduces the traction in
the rear wheels, often sending the car in a spin. Usually
the car stays in the middle of the road, headed the
wrong way. The next car is due around that curve
in 30 seconds! What are you going to do? Be
prepared for this situation. Make sure that the
co-driver is prepared to act appropriately. It
may be necessary for the co-driver to get out and push
the car off the road. If the car is a danger,
the co-driver should get out to signal on-coming cars
to slow down with a red flag!
Some accidents are caused by drivers, even experienced
ones, who fall under the influence of the infamous “red
mist.” This happens when the driver’s
desire for speed overwhelms his sense of caution. Navigators
must be aware of this potential, and have a plan to
bring the driver back to his senses before it’s
too late. One navigator suggested tying a string
around the driver’s private parts, and yanking
on it when caution was necessary.
Check to see if the local SCCA or NASA club offers
high performance driving instruction. Car clubs – BMW,
Porsche, etc. -- offer competitive driving instruction,
but usually not for your ’64 Dodge Slant Six
Dart! Take a course at one of the national racing
schools.
Do I need a rally computer?
No, not really. An electronic digital wristwatch
is about the only instrument you must have. A
stopwatch might be also useful if you want to time
your speed runs. This rally is not about hundreds
of a second. It’s scored in 10ths.
Most of the cars, however, will have Terra Trip or
other rally computer. The primary advantage of
a rally computer is being able to indicate where you
where you are in a speed section, so the navigator
can find and read the correct instruction in the Route
Book. The more advanced computers—with
a clock—will also help pinpoint the time when
you need to check-in at the next speed stage.
Practice adding and subtracting hours and minutes,
too. It is a “base 60” system, and
it can be tricky under pressure.
What licenses are needed?
A valid U.S. or European driver's license and FMAD
(Mexican Racing Federation) license are required. You
are not required to have a racing license from your
country, as the rules stipulate. The cost of the FMAD
license is approximately $260 for each member of the
crew (driver and co-driver). Normally, the license
provides you with a certain amount of medical insurance,
plus death and dismemberment. While racing you
are covered by the event’s third-party liability
insurance. But you can be held responsible for
being reckless or under the influence. All crews
should be able to post a $10,000 USD appearance bond
while in Mexico,
You may start the process of obtaining your license
by downloading the FMAD application from www.femadac.org.mx. You
are not required to pay until you go through the final
registration and inspection at the starting city. You
must fill out the application and send it in if you
intend to import your car into Mexico using the services
of a Mexican customs broker.
The FMAD is also known as FEMADAC (FE’-MA-DAC).
How many drivers are allowed in each car?
Each car must have a FMAD licensed driver and licensed
co-driver while in competition. But any number
of drivers and co-drivers may sign up and rotate during
the race. Anyone who rides in the car during
the race must have the FMAD license – no exceptions. Only
two licensed competitors may be in the car at one time
during competition. Cars may be disqualified
or heavily penalized for violating these rules.
How many cars are allowed in the Pan Am?
The limit is around 100 cars--counting all classes. Occasionally,
a car or two will be allowed to run in “exhibition.” There
are no longer any limit on cars from North America
(the US and Canada), Europe, or Mexico..
Is a support crew and service truck necessary?
No, but almost all cars these days arrange to
have some mechanical support available. A declining
number of hardy entrants actually drive their racecar
down to the start of the Pan Am, race 2000 miles, and
then drive the cars back home. More have their
car transported by truck to the start, and after the
race, have it shipped home from the border. Most
competitors have a service truck, trailer, and crew
to follow them.
Mechanical support in Mexican may be arranged.
What if my car breaks down during the race?
You get it fixed and rejoin the race. After each
speed section, a sweeper car and the police try to
check on all missing cars. Tow trucks are generally
available, or another service vehicle with a trailer
will get you to the next town. Mexican mechanics
will fix it. That is part of their culture. Repair – not
replace – is a way of life south of the border.
Please note, however, that if your car breaks down,
it is your sole responsibility to have it fixed or transported
to the nearest town for repair. You
should have a plan to rescue your car. Do not expect the race organization
to send anyone to help you. A list of Carrera-friendly auto repair
shops in each town is usually included in the Route Book.
If the car cannot be repaired (rare), then the local
officials will help transport the car and make alternate
travel arrangements for you. A few cars
have never returned from Mexico.
A rescue squad, doctors, and ambulances also follow
the race. Local emergency services are also present
to render assistance. Mexican medical facilities
are decent.
What if my spouse. significant other, or her friends
want to come along?
Arrangements can be made for spouses, significant others,
and friends. Be aware, however, that the Pan
Am is a difficult race to watch because the roads are
closed before and immediately after the special speed
sections. In other words, your friends can usually
watch only one speed section each morning and each
afternoon, because they will get trapped in front of,
or behind, the race. The race really snarls up
traffic during the first two days or so, so it’s
difficult to get ahead of it.
Guides and cars may be hired at reasonable cost to
get your friends close to the action.
What about extra hotel rooms?
An additional hotel room for your crew members costs
around $1320.00 for the eight nights of the event.
These are usually nice rooms with two double beds.
The hotels sometimes charge more for more than two
people. To arrange rooms for your crew (so they
will be at the same hotel as you), try to decide your
needs as soon as possible and place your order with
the event director.
Reserving extra rooms in Carrera hotels by emailing moni@lacarrerapanamericana.com.mx or
calling 1-310-860-6959 in the U.S., which rings in
Mexico City.
How do I get my car there?
You may drive, tow, trailer, or ship your car to the
start of the race. It takes about two or three
days to drive from Laredo, Texas to the start of the
race, assuming you get an early start the first day.
The car must be “imported” into Mexico
when you cross the border. Most competitors get
a tourist permit and sticker for around $46 USD. You
must also make a cash deposit of up to $400, which
will be refunded when you cancel your permit ans take
the vehicle out of Mexico.
If you drive or tow down, avoid Mexico City. There
is a bypass around the city called Arco del Norte. In
Mexico City, they only allow you to drive only four
days during the workweek. On Monday, if your license
plate ends with 5/6 you can't drive it, 7/8 Tues.,
3/4 Wed., 1/2 Thurs., 9/0 Friday. It is a $400.00 USD “fine” and
the local police see it as a "big pay off" if
they catch you. You also need a permit to drive
into Mexico City on a weekday morning before 11:00
AM. Saturday and Sunday are unrestricted
days. Early Sunday morning is a good time to
navigate Mexico City (a.k.a. “México” or
the “Federal District”). Note:
road signs say only “México” for
Mexico City or “México D.F.”
For the past ten years we have operated the Coyote
Convoy from Laredo to the start of the race. Never
lost a straggler yet. Yes, there is strength
in numbers!
You also must avoid towing a car on expressways through
town anywhere in Mexico. Trailers are supposed
to be used on the service roads. Again, it’s
a big “fine” if caught! One driver
paid a $400 “fine” but got a police escort
to the outskirts of town! (See “mordida” below.)
Some drivers circumnavigate the whole city. Study
a map carefully, and you can see a new route that runs
around the northern part of this huge city.
You may also have your car shipped by commercial truck
to the start of the race. The Pan Am organizers
and North American coordinator will make announcements
about these plans during the summer. Your car
should be ready to load on the truck anywhere in the
States by October 1 to ensure a timely arrival in Mexico. The
cost will range from $6000-7000 USD, down to the start
and back from Laredo. The cost of shipping a
car to Laredo, Texas from points in the USA will vary
enormously. You may also ship a service truck,
like a Tahoe, down with your racecar for about the
same price as the car.
Mechanical support can also be arranged in Mexico.
What about the border crossing?
It is highly recommended that you cross into Mexico
at Nuevo Laredo, across from Laredo, Texas. The
race is well known in Nuevo Laredo and the Pan Am has
friends among the Mexican Custom officials there. The
road from Nuevo Laredo to Mexico City is also excellent--the
best available.
For most Pan Am crews, there are two separate procedures
to endure at the border: entering the country as tourists
and importing the racecar, tow truck, and trailer.
Entering as tourists. This is the fun
part. Entering and
exiting Mexico as a tourist now requires a passport or approved ID. (You
will also need a passport or approved ID to re-enter the U.S.)
Obtain your tourist visa (called the FMM) after you
cross the border. Look for the “Migración” office. After
you fill out the form, sign the back in two places,
and have it stamped by the official, you should pay
$22 for it at any local bank because you will be in
Mexico for more than a week.
Get your tourist visa first, before trying to import
your vehicles. A visa is necessary to travel more than
18 miles into Mexico, except in Baja.
After you get your visa and make a copy of it, you
wander down the hall to the office marked “Banjercito” to
get your automobile permits.
Importing the race car, truck, and trailer.
This can be tricky, so be patient. Because you will
be driving your racecar and truck more than 18 miles
south of the border, the vehicles must be officially imported. Be well
prepared. This process is necessary to prevent the smuggling of stolen cars
and to protect the Mexican auto industry. Currently you have two options:
(1) import the race car, tow truck, and
trailer yourself and a trusted friend, or
(2) use the services of the Mexican Federation
of Auto Sports (FMAD) and a customs broker.
DOING IT YOURSELF--THE MOST COMMON METHOD
¨ Make absolutely sure you have the
original title and original registration document for each vehicle, including
your trailer. Do not show up at the border with only a copy of these
documents.
¨ Get your personal tourist visa first. Make
a copy of it (there’s a booth nearby), and go to the Banjercito window. Be
calm. Plan on one hour to stand in line and complete the process. Much
depends on the time of day.
¨ Make two photocopies of everything:
title, registration, driver’s license, passport, visa, etc. A credit
card in the car owner’s name is needed to post a $200-400 bond to ensure
that you that you will bring the vehicles out of the country. This amount is
now charged against your credit card, and will be refunded whenyou take the
vehicle out of Mexico.
¨ One person may import only one motor
vehicle a year into Mexico. So, if the racecar and tow vehicle are titled
in one person’s name, you need to have one of them re-titled and registered
in another person’s name who will be at the border crossing—with
the proper documents, too. (You cannot use an affidavit for this purpose.)
¨ The cost for this will be around
$46 USD for each motor vehicle.
¨ Trailers are imported as part of
the truck. No separate bond is required or fee is required. You
will need its title and registration. The trailer information will be
written on your truck’s import permit.
¨ Don't fight the process. Stand in
line, be patient, and you will eventually get your papers. Think DMV. Screaming
at them does absolutely no good. The offer of a racing cap, t-shirt,
or other non-monetary token of your appreciation will be far more effective. Eventually,
you will be given a sticker for your racecar and truck. Put them on your
front windshield behind the rearview mirror. They will be checked along
the way. Your permit is uyou vehicle registration while in Mexico. Keep
it in a safe place.
¨ You may pre-register for importing
your car and truck via the internet at www.banjercito.com.
You may no longer obtain a tourist visa and vehicle
permits at several Mexican consulate offices in the
USA, primarily in California, Arizona, and Texas.
Please note: getting your car across the border
is your responsibility. Officials of the race
will help, but they cannot guarantee that your car
and truck and documents will be accepted.
THE OTHER OPTION--THE FMAD-BROKER PROCESS
The use of the FMAD (Mexican auto racing federation)-broker
process is recommended when the vehicles are owned
by a company or arriving in Vera Cruz. First,
you must obtain and complete the FMAD import forms,
and send them back to FMAD in Mexico City. FMAD
will process these forms that authorize your car and
truck to be imported for racing purposes. This
service costs approximately $260. FMAD will
send the forms to a customs broker in Laredo or other
port of entry and will send a copy to you. The
form may be downloaded via internet at www.fedemac.org.mx. Their
fax number is 011 52 55 5254-0157.
Second, you will pay the designated customs broker
between $300-3000 (negotiable) for importing your racecar
and tow rig. This service is available only during
the regular workweek. A list of brokers will
be made available.
It is highly recommended that entries arriving in large
trucks (more than 10,000 lbs), many spare parts, and/or
a lack of key documents use the services of a customs
broker. Please note that most customs brokers
do not work on Saturday and Sunday.
Read the Carrera rules closely at 8.4.a. in the 2011
version.
What about car insurance in Mexico?
North American and European car insurance is not valid
in Mexico. You must buy Mexican insurance to
cover your racecar and tow truck. Buy liability,
collision, and comprehensive based on the combined
value of your tow truck and trailer. Buying
insurance on the racecar is not required but recommended
by the Organizers for when your racecar is not racing,
like a night. AAA offices have access to Mexican
insurance or inquire with your Northern American carrier. You
can also buy it on the US or Mexican sides of the border
-- at several shops along the highway, or on the Internet. When
racing only, liability on your racecar is covered by
the FMAD policy, subject to a deductible.
Most regular insurance companies will never insure
a racecar, even for the trip down on a trailer. Never
tell them why you are driving your ‘65 Shelby
GT350 Mustang to Mexico for any reason other than to
see the Mayan ruins! As you know, no regular
car insurance covers it while its being used in competition. Insurance
for two weeks on a Suburban and trailer for max liability
and valued at $20,000 for comprehensive cost around
$210. Many insurance companies will not cover
old cars.
The best and easiest broker for Mexican insurance is
Bajabound at www.bajabound.com.) They
work with the races in Baja and understand our situation.
There are companies that will issue umbrella insurance
(liability) policies on you and your race car. The
cost is around $3000.
When you are racing, you and your racecar are covered
by a limited amount of third-party liability insurance. You
may be required to pay a large deductible or post a
bond, upwards to $10,000 USD, if you have an accident
and cause damage or injure someone while racing. Remember: in
Mexico, you hit it, you buy it.
How much will traveling in Mexico cost me?
An estimate of overall expenses is:
• Gas for transport from Texas to Tuxtla Gutierrez. It’s 1,700
miles at $3.50 per gallon. Add $200-300 for tolls. The latter amount
really depends on which route that you take. If you are towing a car
or trailer, the tolls double. You can buy pesos at the border. Keep the toll
receipts, since they entitle you to emergency services.
• Hotels on way down for crew: one or two night's @ $100-125. Nice
hotels in Mexico are as expensive as US hotels. All good clean places
with inside security parking. Use a good tourist guide, AAA, or
book them on the Internet. Most American hotel/motel chains have properties
in Mexico. Try Best Western. If you arrive early in the starting
city before Thursday night, you will also have to pay for the extra nights. The
Carrera race “package” starts Thursday night before the race starts
and ends the next Thursday night in Nuevo Laredo (eight nights). Rooms
for extra nights usually cost around $165 per night tax included.
• Budget $60.00 per day per person pocket/food money during the race.
Sometimes there’s a Mexican meal provided at the driver’s meeting
each night. Not always, but usually. You’ll pay for breakfast
and lunch most days, plus snacks, bottled water, etc. Professional “companionship” is
not included in these estimates!
What are some tips for traveling south of the border?
Money. Exchange your money after you arrive in
Mexico at a bank or exchange shop since the rate of
exchange is generally better. Most of the hotels
will also change money, but often the limit the amount. If
you are carrying $100 bills, make sure they have not
been defaced or marked on in any way. Even the
slightest mark may cause them to be rejected. Most
cities have ATMs but sometimes they severely limit
the amount of pesos that can be withdrawn. Use
the ATMS inside the lobby of the bank for safety. Remember,
the sign for a peso is also a $, so when the ATM asks
if you want to withdraw $1000 – that is actually
only $77 USD. The exchange rate will the posted
in the hotel lobby and at the banks. Usually
it is around 10-12 pesos to the dollar and it has been
as high as 13.8. Sometimes the locals will accept
American dollars for gas or an item. Carry a
small calculator with you to calculate the cost in
dollars. Hand it to the person selling the item and
let them figure it out for you. Don't hurry.
(Divide the amount of pesos by the exchange rate.) You
won't have any problems if you take your time. US
dollar bills can be used widely in northern Mexico,
especially at the gas stations and toll booths, but
the exchange rate is not good. But when you get
down south, they will usually accept only pesos.
Please note: normally, you cannot buy gas on
a credit card, although this is changing. Some
gas stations will try to rip you off. Watch the
attendant pump the gas. Make sure the pump reads 00.00
before he starts it. Credit cards (VISA/MC) are
widely accepted, especially at better restaurants and
stores.
Inspections. There are drugs and weapons (anti-terrorist)
inspections and army roadblocks throughout Mexico.
Most soldiers have machine guns, but don't be intimidated
or worried. They are there for your protection. They
may ask to see your passport and car importation documents. They
tend to be officious but polite and curious about the
racecars. Keep smiling. Agricultural inspections
stations are normally waived.
Fines and fees (legal or illegal). Keep a fresh
$100 bill on hand at all times. Keep it separate
from a stack of bills. Eventually everyone that
drives south of the border will commit a traffic infraction
of some sort. Towing a colorful racecar
behind a fancy SUV will often cause the police to look
for a reason to pull you over, especially in and around
Mexico City.
Normally, you will be pulled over by a local traffic
cop. He will first ask to see your license. Once
you hand it over, you are screwed. Try giving
him your Carrera racing license, or carry a duplicate
license. Pretend you understand no Spanish. Unlike
the States, the Mexican police can keep your license
until you pay the fine. Many officers will eventually
suggest that you pay the fine to him on the spot. If
he does, this is the practice of “mordida,” or
literally a “bite” (bribe). The amount
of the fine is highly negotiable. He will ask
a gringo for $400-500 USD. Usually, you
can negotiate the “fine” down, if you are
persistent and patient. The crisp $100
bill will usually get you back on the road, if you
are a good negotiator. If you are in a hurry,
it will cost you $400.
Granted, the Mexican Government is running a campaign
to stop “mordida,” but it will take a few
more years (decades?) to eradicate this unsettling
custom. You may chose not to pay the bribe,
but the only option is to go down to the police station
and pay the fine. Then you will get your driver’s
license back.
The best thing to do it not to violate any traffic
rules, even when driving your racecar. In most
of the cities we visit, the police are very supportive.
It's a great adventure just getting to the start of
the race. Be cool, take your time, don't panic,
kick back, and enjoy yourself. Apart from “mordida,” Mexico
is a wonderful place, just about everyone in the country
is happy to see you, and they love the Pan Am race. If
you need something, just ask for it. The locals will
try their best to be helpful and to accommodate you. Most
young people speak some English. As long as
you can smile and say “gracias,” they will
bend over backwards to help you, even old gringos!
What about our hotels in Mexico?
Usually there are three or four hotels for the Pan
Am people in each city. One will be designated
as the HQ hotel. It is possible to find out your
hotel assignment ahead of time, but you may not find
out until you arrive. The hotels are usually
first class or luxury – with purified water systems
and 24 hour room service, plus laundry. Maps
of the cities with the locations of the hotels are
normally provided to each Pan Am and service vehicle. Check
this web site under Travel
Info.
Can I drink the water and eat the food?
Yes, mostly. The water in the hotels is filtered
and purified for tourists. Generally, you
do not have to worry about their food. Outside
of the hotels and better restaurants, follow these
simple rules:
(1) drink only water, cokes, juices, etc. out of sealed
bottles or cans that you open yourself.
(2) eat only hot, prepared food and never eat cold
seafood dishes.
(3) eat no salads (greens) and only fruit that you
peel. Or wash it first with bottled water.
If you get sick, go to the drug store (farmacía)
and point to your stomach and say “la turística.” They
will give you an antibiotic to stop it. Even so, it
usually lasts for three days. Keep drinking water
and follow the directions on the medicine’s label. Most
pharmacists speak a little English. Some people
take two Pepto-Bismol tablets in the AM and PM, and
drink lots of lime juice to ward off illness. Vast
quantities of tequila also seem to contribute to the “revenge.” If
you get the "turística,” it is critical
that you get the right medication and drink lots of
fluid. Just the change in altitude will make
some people feel really bad for a few days.
Drinking to excess at night and attempting to race
the next day is not a good plan. Drinking while
driving or especially racing can earn you jail time. For
example, you are covered by the race’s liability
insurance, unless you have been drinking or do something
really stupid, like a burnout in a crowded area. If
you have an accident that involves serious injury to
a person, like a spectator, you may be required to
stay in that town pending a criminal investigation
and hearing before a magistrate.
What should I do when I arrive in Oaxaca or the
starting city?
Normally, you will not be sent a list of your hotel
reservation until a week or two before the event. If
you receive this list, then you can check into your
hotel upon arrival. If you did not receive the
list, Then go to the race paddock where
the cars are being prepped and inspected. Find
the Carrera registration desk. You will receive
hotel info for eight nights
If you check into the hotel first, find the place where
the cars are being prepared. Registration and
inspection should open at 10:00 AM on Tuesday before
the race. A taxi will be happy to guide you there. This
where you will complete the final registration for
the event. Go to the registration desk (Station
#1) first and pick up your “carnet.” You
will also be asked to sign a waiver. You will be given
a jacket and other items, including your timing “chip,” for
which you will pay a deposit of $200 USD.
The carnet will list the other stations that you must
visit: FMAD, medical, car inspection, etc. After
your car is inspected, race officials will install
the official decals and numbers on it. When everything
is finished and signed off, you will return to the
registration desk for your final OK decal, which allows
you to race. It usually takes 4-5 hours to complete
all of this (remember everything shuts down two hours
for lunch). Be patient.
Numbers are assigned by class. Within your class,
you may request a number. See the official rules. Veterans
are usually allowed to keep their old numbers.
The official Pan Am vinyl decal and numbers must remain
on the doors of your car throughout the race. This
allows Timing and Scoring to track you daily and to
account for missing cars. If you fail to pass
through a checkpoint, sweeper crews and the police
will be alerted to look for you. You may be disqualified
if you lose your numbers.
Make sure that the sides of your car are clean and
wet (only water, not cleaner) when you affix them. In
recent years, the organizers have supplied young men
who apply the decals. Use a credit card to squeeze
out the air bubbles. The decals may be trimmed
to fit smaller doors or spaces. If you have a
chrome “spear” down the middle of the door,
you may cut the number decal in half, and affix the
halves above and below the spear. Bring along
some racer’s tape, so you can stick them back
on if necessary.
The names of the driver and co-driver, allergies, and
blood types should also be on each side of the car. Your
name, blood type, and allergies should also be on your
helmet and uniform. Mexican sign painters, who
hang out at the fair grounds during this week, will
paint this information on your car and helmets for
a modest fee. They will also add “La Carrera
Panamericana” to the roof, and other symbols
(flags) and slogans as you desire. They can also
paint your name and info on your helmets. Normally,
you can have all of this done for around $100 USD.
You may place your sponsor’s decal on your car. The
hood, top, and trunk are usually yours, while the sides
mostly belong to the race sponsors. Anything
written or displayed on your car should be in good
taste. Please do not hang a pair of latex balls under
the back bumper.
The service crew must register and supply the officials
with proof of Mexican auto insurance. Once this
is done, the service crew will be given decals for
the truck and a route book.
How thorough is the technical inspection?
The inspectors first check for safety and emergency
equipment: full six-point roll cage, belts, fire extinguisher,
spare tire, jack, first aid kit, foam neck braces,
red warning flags, etc. They will check your helmet
and driving suit.
Then the next step will be inspecting the car for compliance
with the rules of the class. Check the latest
edition of the rules for an up to date list.
If you have any doubt about your car or any modification
that you have made to it, please contact the North
American Coordinator. It would be most unfortunate
if you were not allowed to compete after making such
a long trip. But it has happened! (Normally,
cars that pass the safety inspection but are not qualified
to compete in a class are placed in Exhibition.)
Helmets must be at least a SNELL 2005 SA, or later.
No motorcycle helmets. Comparable rally helmets,
English, or European helmets are OK. The driver
and co-driver must wear fire resistant (SFI rated)
two-layer suits. You can get them though Racer
Wholesale.com for $300. Crews in open cars should
use full-face helmets and must use arm restraints,
if not window nets.
Some cars and trucks have radio for use within the
144-148 MHz range, the Mexican emergency band. American
CBs work, too. They are also checking seatbelt
dates. They should be no older than four years.
Window nets are required at inspection and are checked
at the speed stages. They are not dated.
Your roll cage will be thoroughly checked, even the
density of the metal tubing, which should be at least
0.089” thick.
The displacement of your car’s engines may be
checked at inspection or at any time thereafter. If
you finish in the top four in your class, it will be
checked at the end of the race. Please conform
to the rules for maximum displacement for your class
or model car.
In Historic C, you may use the largest engine generally
available in that model car in 1965. For Fords
this is a 289-302, and for a Chevy a 327. This
does not include big block engines that were installed
in a few compact drag cars in the 1960s, or the Boss
302 engine in Fords.
Will we receive official instructions or orientation?
Before the race there will be a mandatory meeting for
drivers and co-drivers. The co-drivers (“co-pilotos”)
or navigators will be given special orientation about
timing and scoring, and especially how to line up for
the special stages. There will be a separate
sessions conducted in English and Spanish. The
Route Books will be distributed when you register,
so bring it with you to the training. A copy
of a timing card will also be useful. This meeting
is mandatory and if you miss it you may be assessed
a two-minute penalty. Sadly, the English session
has not been terribly useful and too many rookies start
the event not knowing exactly how to calculate the
time when the car is supposed to show up at the speed
stages. If you do not “get it” in
the orientation, find a veteran to explain it to you.
The night before the race, there will be a “mandatory” Driver's
Meeting. Co-drivers also attend, along with support
crew members.
Make sure that you understand the timing and scoring
process before you leave the meeting. You
may also be given a set of supplementary rules and
changes to the Route Book. Make sure than you
review them before the start of the race. A separate
route book is given to each service vehicle, as well,
when they register and show proof of insurance.
An optional time trial or “pre-qualification” is
conducted the day before the start of the Pan Am to
determine the starting order for the first day. After
the first day, the starting order is determined by
overall standing each day.
Each car is given a starting time for each day of the
race and a timing card. The latter is usually available
at the starting arch in the morning. The start time
for each car will also be available at the starting
line (arch). Try to get to the arch around 7:00-7:30
AM depending on your overall standing. The faster
cars start leaving the arch normally at 8:00 AM. The
other cars are dispatched at thirty-second intervals. The
start time for subsequent days is based entirely on
the car’s performance the previous day. Sometimes
the starting process is slowed up or speeded up. In
order words do NOT expect the cars to pass through
the arch in order or on time.
How fast do Pan Am cars run the special stages?
Speeds vary significantly with the class of car and
the drivers. To keep up with the pack, cars needs
to average 60-70 MPH in the special stages—a
challenge on mountain roads! Tops speeds will
reach 90-120 MPH in most of these stages. Cars
in the faster classes will average around 85 MPH and
will reach speeds limited to 144 MPH on the few straights. Most
cars carry “lower” differential gears
for pulling the mountains, thus restricting top speed. Over
80% of the special stages are over mountain roads. The
long, straight sections have been reduced or eliminated
to increase safety. Many dangerous downhill
runs have been eliminated.
Each curve is rated in order of difficulty in the Route
Book, so you will know when a dangerous curve is approaching. You
will have plenty of time to test your brakes, slow
the car down, and avoid the chicken crossing the road!
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Note: These answers to these FAQs do not necessarily
represent official policy. They are based as
closely as possible on the official rules, as well
as past practice. In case of any conflict,
the actual text of the rules, as written in Spanish,
govern. These FAQs will be revised
as necessary. Please ask if you have other questions or suggest other
questions to be answered. This information has also been provided
by a competitor in Historic C (car #395), who may have a slight conflict of
interest.
Warning: Please understand that any form of auto racing is dangerous
and by participating in this race you are solely responsible for any damage
or injury. Be careful!
Gerie Bledsoe
North American Coordinator
© Copyright 2006-2012